Sarah's Latin American Experience: Week 17 - San Blas Islands, Panama to "The Middle of the Ocean"

October 16 - 22, 2004

THE SAN BLAS ISLANDS AND THE KUNA

During the week - some days were spent on islands, all nights spent on the boat. The San Blas Islands are absolutely gorgeous - palm covered islands! Each one is more beautiful than the last. Some are just a bit land with a coconut tree or two...

Others are lived on...some have only 5 families on them...

Others have small villages....

Each is very primitive. There is no electricity and no plumbing.

The islands are inhabited by the one of Panama`s seven indigenous groups - the Kuna (sometimes spelled, Cuna). The islands are self governed, communally owned, and are run by chiefs. However, individuals are allowed to own coconut trees - which is taken very seriously. Natives get into trouble for taking coconuts off of trees they do not own. They maintain almost every traditional aspect of their lives. They also purposely limit tourism. The Panamanian government wishes to promote it but the indigenous are not very interested.

The indigenous dress extremely beautifully. Click here. In this photo, you can see that their blouses have beautifully sewn molas. Click here to see photos of MOLAS. Click here to learn more about MOLAS. And here for further information on MOLAS. Also, all married women have short hair as a sign of their status.

Here you can see a mola on the back of this woman’s blouse...

Here you can see the beadwork that all of the women wear around their arms (from wrist to elbow) and legs (from ankle to knee)...

Click here to see more photos of the Kuna.

They speak their own language and most also speak Spanish and some English. All three languages are taught in their schools. They were extremely friendly, wonderful people. Here is another good site about the Kuna.

Saturday to Wednesday - SAN BLAS ISLANDS, PANAMA

After a good night of sleep on the boat, we were awakened by visitors. A boat (hand made - hollowed out tree) of Kuna approaches us to sell and trade hand made goods (mostly molas).

We bought and also traded our clothes, jewelry, and some food for their handmade jewelry and molas.... really neat!!

I spent time on the islands (some I was able to swim to, others I had to use the dingy for transport). My highlight was teaching English to Kuna kids... really, really neat!! I spent three afternoons with families - and there were absolutely no other tourists on the island at all. Such a rich experience and definitely a trip highlight.

Lunch on the island...

Playing ball on one of the islands with the kids...

Kuna girls practicing for a local celebration...

Village photos...

Coconut-tree-trunk basketball hoop set-up...

Kuna school and students...

Beautiful Kuna children...

After 4 fantastic days with the Kuna, we "tried" to leave the islands for Colombia. However, BOAT ISSUE NO. 3 - shipwrecked! Yep, the boat hit land. Thank goodness no damage was done to the boat. We had to wait until a big boat came by to pull us out... And so we waited a day. Luckily, waiting, on a boat, near an island, in the ocean can be a very fun thing. Lots of swimming, snorkeling, and relaxing. Definitely could not complain. I even read a book while waiting to be rescued...The Da Vinci Code by Dan Brown. Highly recommended.

Thursday to Friday - THE MIDDLE OF THE OCEAN

After "Don Thomas", the big life saving Colombian coconut boat (diesel powered wooden boat) pulled us out of land, we smoothly sailed off for Colombia.

Since our captain had to sell our diesel (55 gallons) because he needed the money (he originally planned on taking his smaller boat - cheaper - but the engine did not start as described in week 16), we were forced to sail the whole way - which made for a slow but really peaceful ride...until... BOAT ISSUE NO. 4 - the storm. Tons of rain, big waves, and some bruises to show for it - being tossed about. We got up to about 15 knots. Normally, the more wind - the smoother the ride. It was very difficult sleeping that night and almost impossible to walk or stand - really tipsy turvy.

After the storm, the next day, we were back to "smooth sailing". Until...BOAT ISSUE NO. 5 - the fire! Yep, we had a fire, on the boat, out at sea. Dennis tried to start the engine (which had about six hours left of fuel in it) because the wind had died down. He also needed to charge the batteries. Something shorted out resulting in a fire. Lovely. After that problem was under control, Dennis managed to rig the boat to be able to have lights and a radio - but no more engine. The rest of the day was good - for real.

The rest of the days and nights were spent out at sea - without being able to see land. I learned that I personally do not like boating at all when I cannot see land. My head gets the best of me... kind of like when you get spooked in the woods and you know it is all in your head, but you are still spooked. It was great - don´t get me wrong but I did not like it much - until I could once again see land. It was also very, very, very tipsy...lots of huge waves, etc... even on the 65 foot boat. When there is little wind, the boat is tipsier than when there is more wind. I cannot imagine being on a smaller one! But, I did not get sick once! Amazing! Only one of the six of us on board got sick. Whew.

Here are some photos of the boat...

David relaxing on the boat...